Esther M. Zimmer Lederberg
Pantofle

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Pantofle
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Pumps: in 1790, heeled shoes were replaced by cothurns. Pumps could be custom made that were soft, fit like gloves, more like slippers or socks. These pumps had a low heel, low tongue, and typically had a large buckle in place of lacing (ribbons used in place of laces, by the wealthier client). For such pumps, there was no "left" and "right" shoes, just "cut straight". These pumps were almost always colored black, with red heels. Dancers almost always wore red silk stockings, too. Pumps like these were not only used by dancers, but also by acrobats, rope-dancers, and fencers.

It should be recalled that on stage, light could emphasize gestures. Thus mirrors, sequins, glass, metalic-thread were materials which were used in clothing to create illumination. Girandoles (large earrings) were used to illuminate, lending emphasis to the gesturing head. Similarly, rings were used on fingers of the gesturing hand as an illumination device. Neclaces were also used for illumination of the gesturing body. Similarly, fans could illuminate the gesturing hand, masks and hats could illuminate the gestring head, shoes can illuminate the gesturing foot, combs and cauls can illuminate the hair or perukes of the gesturing head, gold or silver thread can illluminate the body (especially royal costumes).

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